Papua New Guinea - Milne Bay Province: January 2015

Sunday, 18 January 2015

Why travel PNG

Papua New Guinea (in short PNG by locals) is exciting destination for anthropologists, adventurous people and travellers preferring off the beaten track in general. It's fauna and flora diversity is world known as one of the last frontiers with rarely travelled and also unexplored places. PNG's location is making it difficult to travel for people living in Europe or Americas but if you are fortunate to live near by (Australia/Asia) it is well worth to visit and explore. It will be unforgettable experience for you and your companion. Tourism in PNG is in its early stages and not many people go there for holidays only. Often people go for work (mining) or volunteer to teach in local schools. Others may go directly to resorts or large towns without exploring town surroundings and villages. This leaves you with a few travellers island hopping, visiting local people and staying at local villages, taking a PMV to travel around, dinghies, light aeroplanes and so on. And you don't have to go far to get to places rarely visited by dim dims (white people) and that is where the real adventure starts, as they say 'Expect the unexpected' ... or 'Life begins at the end of your comfort zone'. I have been warned before my trip that PNG is a wild place, to be careful because of local unrest and so on. I have travelled the eastern part of PNG - Milne Bay Province which is fantastically welcoming and safe. PNG thrives to have more tourists roaming around, they will be very happy to have you in their country and they will look after you. If you tell them that you are on holidays and not work related trip, they will be surprised and interested in your travels and your personality.

Saturday, 17 January 2015

People of Milne Bay Province

People are simply amazing. The purpose of my trip was to get to know the culture and nature of the local people. I have had no expectations. At the end of the day my experience would most likely be different if I have travelled big towns only (PM, Lae etc.) but I have spent all my time in villages of Fergusson Island, Normanby Island and Trobriand Islands - the largest town I have visited was Alotau in the Milne Bay Province. Majority of people are Christians and go to church on regular basis. European missionaries have done fairly good job to convert island people into god believers. It is more a mixture of Christianity and hundreds, thousands of years of traditional beliefs.

People are kind, respectful and always with smile on their face. Considering Australia has been colonizing PNG for over a half a century I was expecting some sort of distance from the white people but I have experienced the opposite. On isolated islands (most of them are) you will be rare sight to the locals and kids will get close to you to touch you and then run away from you. Kind of hard to believe that they don't get in contact with the outside world very much. TV is non existent on Pacific Islands of PNG and the only kind of communication is recently becoming mobile phone. This usually comes with 3G reception. As public phone is a rarity and internet access only in a large hotels, I would recommend to get yourself a mobile phone. You will have a constant access to internet and booking of accommodation and tours will get easier as well.

After a few nights staying at someone's place you will essentially become part of their family. Brother, son etc. People will invite you for a dinner, a walk, fishing trip etc. It is good to bring some presents (rice, sugar etc.) if you intent to stay at someone's place as an appreciation.

Francis and his betelnut

East Cape pastor, Christmas Day 2014

Making of broom out of coconut tree leaves

People carry most items on top of their head

Friday, 16 January 2015

Culture of Milne Bay Province

Island culture has changed in last 50 years or so. Ownership has became a part of people's lives and essentially life became more competitive. Trade items used to be shells, banana leaves - they essentially still are but money is the main form of currency now. You will not be able to buy a phone credit or a fuel for a dinghy with shells now. Size of your house, number of pigs and ownership of an electric generator do let you know who is doing well and who doesn't.

As I have spend most of mine time on one of the smaller Trobriand Islands, people live more simple life rather than on Kiriwina. There is no electricity, supply of fresh water is a problem at times and with only a few shops that sell tinned food and essentials only. Most people don't work and live off the garden only. The only people who work and get paid on regular basis would be teachers and that's about it. The rest of people work in their gardens, look after their kids, visit relatives and relax on hot days. There is no rush at all, that's for sure. Island time. Man is the head of the family and women usually eat meals after men finish. Meals are being prepared by women, I have not seen a man cooking. This would certainly be different in big towns I guess where everyone is working and lifestyle is completely different .

With the mobile phone breaking into society everyone has got an access to the internet and reliable form of communication. Which will bring a many good things for the people but also some bad ones. I believe people have their own unique culture due to not being exposed to the outside world. They are happy with what they have (not much, if anything) and once they can see they could have more - would they want more?

People live simple life and if you forget tinned roofs, modern clothing and mobile phones, this is how they have lived for many centuries, not many things have really changed as there is not much room for a change. Islands are tiny and natural resources basic. People eat food they grow by themselves, eat fish they catch themselves and smoke tobacco grown in their own garden. I don't see much changing there any time soon.

Money and Western influence is slowly changing culture to the more modern type of thing, yet unique and welcoming.

Band performing at Esa'ala Festival

Kiriwina girl

Traditional canoe, Esa'ala Festival

Thursday, 15 January 2015

Food and accommodation

Food is basic. Islands of PNG is not a destination for gourmet traveller. Vegetables as yam, sweet potatoes, rice and pumpkin are part of most meals. And so is corn, bananas and coconut. Protein intake would be chicken, fish and pork (for celebrations). Heaps of exotic fruit. If there is no fish caught that day there would be no meat. I have visited in very hot part of the year so I was not much hungry anyways. Keep hydrated instead, the heat and humidity is a killer.

Accommodation - I would suggest to stay with the locals if you travel islands. You won't have much choice anyways. Guesthouses are clean, looked after and in most cases food will be provided to you as restaurants are non existent. Women's Association places were my favourite as they are the cheapest and the staff is fantastic. Value for money. If you are a couple you may want to look for a fancier places but these are double to triple the price. Suit your requirements, on most small islands you'll find one guesthouse only, usually with not many visitors staying, you will be the only one. Depending on part of the year, location etc. etc. Booking is not essential as it adds to your adventure, right? (book Port Moresby though, you don't want to miss out there on a good deal, accommodation in Port Moresby is overpriced)

Some great places I have stayed:

PORT MORESBY - Jessie Wyatt House tel.: 32 53 64 6 (cheap and clean stopover)

ALOTAU - Saugere tel.: 64 1016 5 (budget yet comfortable, quiet and clean)

FERGUSSON ISLAND - ZIMS DeiDei Guesthouse tel.: 72 78 12 58 (Francis and his family, very friendly, food is fantastic and they will show you the whole island if you wish, very recommended)

NORMANBY ISLAND - Esa'ala Women's Association Guesthouse tel.: 64 11 21 7

KIRIWINA ISLAND - Cindy's Guesthouse tel.: 73 13 65 38 (Cindy and Janet will look after you and the food is delicious, room large and comfortable, recommended)

KITAVA ISLAND - no guesthouses, village stays only, best beaches and snorkelling

Quick snack

ZIMS Guesthouse

Dinner at ZIMS guesthouse

Esa'ala guesthouse Christmas lunch (festival celebrations)

Some bakery products

Christmas Day on Kiriwina Island

Picnic on Kitava Island

New Years Eve dinner, Kiriwina Island

New Years Day breakfast, Kiriwina Island

Wednesday, 14 January 2015

Safety

PNG varies in places you can go, cultures to see, flora and fauna and levels of safety you come along.

Port Moresby is unexciting, dirty, expensive to stay and dodgy to move around yourself without a guide. Transit place only for me.

Milne Bay Province is - on the other hand - very safe place to travel. Na rascals to speak of. As Alotau is not connected with Port Moresby via highway, the trouble stays in the western parts of PNG - highlands and Port Moresby itself.

I have heard of some rascal activity in the New Britain. I would suggest to check current situation in the country before you go but I would not be worried unless there is a major unrest happening. And once you are in PNG, use common sense - do not go out very late by yourself, go with locals they know where it is ok to go and where not - in Milne Bay Province you can go where ever you would like to - pretty much anytime.

Speaking to trustworthy locals is the way to go, they will help you with pretty much anything, from accommodation to things to do.

Do not believe the negative hype and experience yourself, it is worth it and you will be just fine.

Tuesday, 13 January 2015

Transport

Transport in PNG is not very reliable. It is actually one of the weaknesses when you want to see a lot within a short period of time. Strict schedules don't happen here and departures/arrivals are erratic. So if you plan to travel PNG I would suggest for you to go with the flow as everything seems to run under 'PNG time'

Planes are the most reliable and comfortable, also the most expensive. Book early.

PMV (Public Motor Vehicle) are very often used by the locals, cheap and do the trick. Comfortable and on time not. Recommended.

Taxi - ok in bigger towns, pricey. Bargain price before getting into one.

Car hire - considering the number of roads in PNG (not many) and steep cost of vehicle hire - this is not common form of travel

Dinghies - the only way to travel islands and cheap (travel with locals to share the cost). Safe - not really. But if the ocean is calm you are fine. Check the weather (no life vests, UHF etc.). If the dinghy gets lost out in the ocean of break down you are in a serious trouble.

Boats - slow and very erratic schedule (if any). Cheaper than plane but takes 3 days instead of 45mins on the plane. Often overcrowded.